Romain Bertin

Why ice cream never freezes completely

A practical exploration of freezing point depression, freezing curves, and models used to predict ice formation in ice cream.

Ice cream freezes progressively rather than at one temperature. This article connects molecular composition, freeze concentration, and predictive freezing-curve models to hardness and scoopability.

Two ice creams are stored overnight in the same freezer at −18 °C.

The first is hard enough to bend a spoon.

The second can be scooped almost immediately.

Their temperature is identical, yet their texture is completely different.

Why?

The usual answer is that one recipe contains more sugar. That is directionally correct, but incomplete. The amount of sugar matters, the type of sugar matters, the quantity of available water matters, and the salts naturally present in dairy ingredients matter as well.

All of these variables influence one central property:

Freezing point depression determines how much water can remain liquid at a given temperature.

Ice cream does not cross a single temperature and suddenly become solid. It freezes progressively. As temperature falls, part of water crystallizes while the rest remains trapped in an increasingly concentrated liquid phase.

Relationship between temperature and frozen water is called freezing curve.

Understanding that curve connects formulation decisions to practical outcomes:

  • hardness at storage temperature;
  • scoopability;
  • resistance to heat shock;
  • melting behaviour;
  • flavour release;
  • ice-crystal growth;
  • perceived creaminess.

This article develops that relationship step by step. We begin with simplest possible system: sugar dissolved in water. We then move toward a complete ice cream mix containing several carbohydrates and milk salts. Finally, we compare calculation strategies and examine why they do not always predict same freezing curve.

Start with an experiment

Consider three solutions, each prepared with:

  • 1000 g of water;
  • 100 g of sugar.

Only sugar differs:

  1. sucrose;
  2. glucose;
  3. fructose.

All three contain same mass of sugar. Should they freeze at same temperature?

At first glance, that seems reasonable. If mass concentration is identical, perhaps effect should also be identical.

It is not.

Glucose and fructose solutions experience approximately twice as much freezing point depression as sucrose solution.

Reason is not that glucose is intrinsically more powerful than sucrose. Freezing point depression depends primarily on number of dissolved particles, not directly on their mass.

Sucrose has molar mass of approximately:

Msucrose=342.30 gmol1M_{\mathrm{sucrose}} = 342.30\ \mathrm{g\,mol^{-1}}

Glucose and fructose have molar masses close to:

MglucoseMfructose180.16 gmol1M_{\mathrm{glucose}} \approx M_{\mathrm{fructose}} \approx 180.16\ \mathrm{g\,mol^{-1}}

For 100 g of each sugar:

nsucrose=100342.30=0.292 moln_{\mathrm{sucrose}} = \frac{100}{342.30} = 0.292\ \mathrm{mol} nglucose=100180.16=0.555 moln_{\mathrm{glucose}} = \frac{100}{180.16} = 0.555\ \mathrm{mol}

Glucose solution therefore contains almost twice as many dissolved molecules. More molecules disturb equilibrium between liquid water and ice more strongly. Consequently, glucose solution must be cooled further before ice and liquid water can coexist.

Equal mass or equal particle count?

SugarMassMolar massMolesMolalityΔTf
Sucrose100.0 g342.30 g/mol0.2920.292 mol/kg0.54°C
Glucose100.0 g180.16 g/mol0.5550.555 mol/kg1.03°C
Fructose100.0 g180.16 g/mol0.5550.555 mol/kg1.03°C
Ideal dilute-solution calculation with van ’t Hoff factor i = 1.

Keep sugar mass constant, then switch to constant molar amount. Distinction is essential: at equal mass, glucose produces larger effect than sucrose; at equal number of moles, their ideal colligative effect is approximately same.

The simplest freezing-point equation

For an ideal dilute solution, freezing point depression can be estimated with:

ΔTf=iKfm\Delta T_f = iK_fm

where:

  • ΔTf\Delta T_f is freezing point depression in degrees Celsius;
  • ii is van ’t Hoff factor;
  • KfK_f is cryoscopic constant of solvent;
  • mm is molality of dissolved solute.

For water:

Kf1.86 Ckgmol1K_f \approx 1.86\ ^\circ\mathrm{C\,kg\,mol^{-1}}

Molality is number of moles of solute per kilogram of solvent:

m=nsolutemwater,kgm = \frac{n_{\mathrm{solute}}}{m_{\mathrm{water,kg}}}

For sugars such as sucrose, glucose and fructose, no dissociation into ions is normally assumed in this elementary calculation, so:

i1i \approx 1

For solution containing 100 g of sucrose in 1 kg of water:

msucrose=100/342.301=0.292 molkg1m_{\mathrm{sucrose}} = \frac{100/342.30}{1} = 0.292\ \mathrm{mol\,kg^{-1}}

Therefore:

ΔTf,sucrose=1×1.86×0.2920.54C\Delta T_{f,\mathrm{sucrose}} = 1 \times 1.86 \times 0.292 \approx 0.54^\circ\mathrm{C}

Predicted initial freezing temperature is approximately:

Tf0.54CT_f \approx -0.54^\circ\mathrm{C}

For 100 g of glucose:

mglucose=100/180.161=0.555 molkg1m_{\mathrm{glucose}} = \frac{100/180.16}{1} = 0.555\ \mathrm{mol\,kg^{-1}} ΔTf,glucose=1×1.86×0.5551.03C\Delta T_{f,\mathrm{glucose}} = 1 \times 1.86 \times 0.555 \approx 1.03^\circ\mathrm{C}

Glucose solution therefore begins to freeze near:

Tf1.03CT_f \approx -1.03^\circ\mathrm{C}

Ideal model captures first practical lesson:

At equal mass, smaller molecules generally produce larger freezing point depression because they provide more dissolved particles.

Freezing point is not frozen-water fraction

Previous calculation predicts temperature at which freezing begins. It does not tell us how much water is frozen at −5, −10 or −18 °C.

This distinction is fundamental.

Initial freezing point answers:

At what temperature can first ice crystals appear?

Freezing curve answers:

At a given temperature, what fraction of available water has crystallized?

For ice cream formulation, second question is usually more useful.

Imagine a mix initially containing:

  • 600 g of water;
  • 150 g of dissolved sugars;
  • 250 g of fat, proteins and other solids.

When first ice appears, nearly all 600 g of water is still liquid. As cooling continues, perhaps 100 g crystallizes. Dissolved sugars remain in liquid phase. They are now dissolved in approximately 500 g of water instead of 600 g.

If another 100 g freezes, same sugars become concentrated in only 400 g of liquid water. Molality therefore rises continuously:

m=nsolutemunfrozen waterm = \frac{n_{\mathrm{solute}}}{m_{\mathrm{unfrozen\ water}}}

As munfrozen waterm_{\mathrm{unfrozen\ water}} decreases, molality increases. Freezing point of remaining serum becomes lower:

ΔTf=iKfm\Delta T_f = iK_fm

This creates characteristic progressive freezing process:

coolingice formationserum concentrationlarger FPDmore cooling required\text{cooling} \rightarrow \text{ice formation} \rightarrow \text{serum concentration} \rightarrow \text{larger FPD} \rightarrow \text{more cooling required}

Process is self-limiting. Every increment of ice formation makes remaining water harder to freeze.

Follow freeze concentration

Ice mass
541.1 g
Unfrozen water
58.9 g
Water frozen
90.2%
Serum sugars
254.8%
Molality
9.68 mol/kg
Residual
3.6e-15°C
0%10%20%30%40%50%60%70%80%90%100%0°C-5°C-10°C-15°C-20°C-25°C
Temperature -18.00°CWater frozen, ideal: 90.2%
Ideal equilibrium model. Solutes remain in liquid phase while pure water crystallizes.

At every temperature, simulation exposes current ice mass, remaining liquid water, serum sugar concentration, molality and residual equilibrium error. Numerical feedback loop matters more than animation of ice crystals.

From one sugar to a real formulation

Ideal equation is easy to apply to a single sugar in water. Real ice cream mix is more complicated.

It may contain:

  • sucrose;
  • dextrose;
  • fructose;
  • lactose from milk;
  • glucose syrup containing molecules of several sizes;
  • salts from milk and whey;
  • sodium chloride;
  • alcohol or polyols;
  • proteins;
  • stabilizers;
  • fat.

Not all components affect freezing in same way.

Small dissolved molecules have strong colligative effect because many particles are present per unit mass. Large molecules contribute fewer particles per unit mass. Insoluble fat does not participate directly in aqueous freezing equilibrium.

Proteins and hydrocolloids can strongly influence viscosity, water mobility and ice-crystal growth, but their direct molar contribution to freezing point depression is comparatively small because of high molecular mass.

ComponentDirect contribution to FPDOther important effects
SucroseHighSweetness, solids
DextroseVery high per unit massSweetness, softness
FructoseVery high per unit massHigh sweetness
LactoseModerateCrystallization risk
Glucose syrupDepends on molecular-weight distributionBody, viscosity, solids
Milk saltsSignificantIonic contribution
FatNegligible direct colligative effectStructure, lubrication, flavour
ProteinsSmall direct effectEmulsification, water binding, body
StabilizersSmall direct effectViscosity, recrystallization control

Important phrase is direct contribution.

A stabilizer may transform sensory and storage behaviour without materially changing calculated FPD. Conversely, a small quantity of low-molecular-mass solute may alter FPD significantly without adding much body.

FPD is important, but it is not a complete texture model.

Additive colligative calculation

For a mixture of ideal, non-electrolyte solutes, total molality can be estimated by summing moles of each dissolved compound:

mtotal=jnjmwater,kgm_{\mathrm{total}} = \frac{\sum_j n_j}{m_{\mathrm{water,kg}}}

with:

nj=mjMjn_j = \frac{m_j}{M_j}

Ideal freezing point depression becomes:

ΔTf=Kfjmj/Mjmwater,kg\Delta T_f = K_f \frac{\sum_j m_j/M_j}{m_{\mathrm{water,kg}}}

For a mixture containing sucrose and dextrose:

ΔTf=Kf(msucrose/Msucrose+mdextrose/Mdextrosemwater,kg)\Delta T_f = K_f\left( \frac{m_{\mathrm{sucrose}}/M_{\mathrm{sucrose}} + m_{\mathrm{dextrose}}/M_{\mathrm{dextrose}}}{m_{\mathrm{water,kg}}} \right)

Suppose 40 g of sucrose are replaced by 40 g of dextrose. Sugar mass remains constant, number of dissolved molecules increases, and therefore:

ΔTf\Delta T_f \uparrow

At fixed storage temperature:

unfrozen water\text{unfrozen water} \uparrow

and usually:

hardness\text{hardness} \downarrow

This is physical basis behind many practical sugar-balancing strategies. Locking total sugar mass, total sweetness, or total solids produces different substitutions; these constraints should not be conflated.

Replace sucrose with dextrose

Start with 150 g sucrose in 620 g water. Choose what must remain constant, then replace part of the sucrose.

Constraint
QuantityOriginalAfter substitution
Sucrose150.0 g75.0 g
Dextrose0.0 g75.0 g
Total sugar mass150.0 g150.0 g
Sweetness equivalent150.0127.5
Dissolved amount0.438 mol0.635 mol
Ideal initial FPD1.31°C1.91°C
Equal mass and equal sweetness are different formulation constraints. The calculation uses a relative sweetness of 0.70 for dextrose and an ideal colligative model.

The table keeps each constraint explicit. Replacing sugar gram for gram preserves solids, but not sweetness. Replacing it at equal sweetness may require a different total sugar mass. In both cases, the number of dissolved molecules, and therefore predicted FPD, changes.

Why ideal equation is not enough

Cryoscopic equation assumes a dilute ideal solution. An ice cream serum becomes neither dilute nor ideal during freezing.

As ice forms:

  • solute concentrations increase sharply;
  • interactions between molecules become more important;
  • effective behaviour of glucose syrups depends on molecular distribution;
  • salts dissociate into ions;
  • some water may be associated with proteins or other solids;
  • liquid phase can approach a highly concentrated, viscous state.

Equation ΔTf=iKfm\Delta T_f = iK_fm remains an excellent conceptual model. It explains why particle count matters, predicts direction of ingredient substitutions, and provides useful estimates at modest concentrations.

But extrapolating it directly across complete freezing range can produce an unrealistic curve.

This leads to practical question:

How can we estimate FPD for a complete ice cream formulation without explicitly modelling every molecule?

One influential answer is sucrose-equivalent method described by Goff and Hartel.

The Goff–Hartel sucrose-equivalent approach

Method converts major carbohydrate sources in formulation into equivalent amount of sucrose. Resulting value is sucrose equivalent, or SESE.

A published form of relationship is:

SE=0.545MSNF+0.765WS+S+0.2(10DE CSS)+0.6(36DE CSS)+0.8(42DE CSS)+1.2(62DE CSS)+1.8HFCS+1.9F\begin{aligned} SE ={}& 0.545\,MSNF + 0.765\,WS + S \\ &+ 0.2\,(10DE\ CSS) + 0.6\,(36DE\ CSS) \\ &+ 0.8\,(42DE\ CSS) + 1.2\,(62DE\ CSS) \\ &+ 1.8\,HFCS + 1.9\,F \end{aligned}

where, depending on formulation convention:

  • MSNFMSNF represents milk solids-not-fat;
  • WSWS represents whey solids;
  • SS represents sucrose;
  • CSSCSS represents corn-syrup solids of specified dextrose equivalent;
  • HFCSHFCS represents high-fructose corn syrup;
  • FF represents fructose or another pure monosaccharide such as dextrose.

Coefficients express approximate freezing-point contribution of each ingredient relative to sucrose. Sucrose has coefficient 1. Fructose has coefficient near 1.9. Low-DE glucose syrup has lower coefficient because average molecular mass is higher. Higher-DE syrup contains greater proportion of smaller saccharides and therefore has larger effect.

Method does not abandon molecular reasoning. It packages it into practical ingredient coefficients.

According to University of Guelph calculation procedure, SESE is first expressed in g per 100 g of mix, then converted to equivalent sucrose concentration in available water:

CSE=100SEWC_{SE} = 100\frac{SE}{W}

where WW is water content on same mass basis. Sugar contribution can then be approximated by polynomial used in published computational work:

FPDsugars=0.00009CSE2+0.0612CSEFPD_{\mathrm{sugars}} = 0.00009\,C_{SE}^2 + 0.0612\,C_{SE}

Definition and basis of SESE must remain consistent. Dividing by water is essential during freeze concentration because available liquid water changes.

Follow one calculation from ingredients to FPD

Use the formulation developed below: 110 g sucrose, 40 g dextrose, 100 g milk solids-not-fat, and 620 g water.

1. Convert each source to sucrose equivalent.

SE=110+(1.9×40)+(0.545×100)=240.5 gSE = 110 + (1.9 \times 40) + (0.545 \times 100) = 240.5\ \mathrm{g}

The three visible contributions are 110 g from sucrose, 76 g from dextrose, and 54.5 g from lactose associated with milk solids-not-fat.

2. Express that equivalent amount relative to available water.

CSE=100240.5620=38.79C_{SE} = 100\frac{240.5}{620} = 38.79

3. Calculate the sugar contribution.

FPDsugars=0.00009(38.79)2+0.0612(38.79)=2.51CFPD_{\mathrm{sugars}} = 0.00009(38.79)^2 + 0.0612(38.79) = 2.51^\circ\mathrm{C}

4. Calculate the separate milk-salt contribution.

FPDmilk salts=2.37100+0620=0.38CFPD_{\mathrm{milk\ salts}} = 2.37\frac{100+0}{620} = 0.38^\circ\mathrm{C}

5. Add both contributions.

FPDtotal=2.51+0.38=2.89CFPD_{\mathrm{total}} = 2.51 + 0.38 = 2.89^\circ\mathrm{C}

The estimated initial freezing point is therefore approximately 2.89C-2.89^\circ\mathrm{C}. This sequence follows the same separation used in the FDS implementation: normalize sucrose equivalents by free water, calculate their FPD, then add the milk-salt term.

Contribution of milk salts

Sugars are not only dissolved particles in an ice cream mix. Milk ingredients introduce mineral salts that also depress freezing point.

Goff and Hartel give practical relationship for contribution associated with milk solids-not-fat and separately represented whey solids:

FPDmilk salts=2.37(MSNF+WSW)FPD_{\mathrm{milk\ salts}} = 2.37\left(\frac{MSNF+WS}{W}\right)

where MSNFMSNF, WSWS, and WW use consistent units. Set WS=0WS=0 when whey solids are not represented separately. Factor 2.37 represents empirical approximation based on average mineral composition and molecular behaviour of milk salts.

Total initial freezing point depression can then be estimated as:

FPDtotal=FPDsugars+FPDmilk saltsFPD_{\mathrm{total}} = FPD_{\mathrm{sugars}} + FPD_{\mathrm{milk\ salts}}

and predicted initial freezing temperature is:

Tf,0=FPDtotalT_{f,0} = -FPD_{\mathrm{total}}

For formulations containing separately added sodium chloride, another explicit salt term may be introduced:

FPDNaCl=0.581855C+0.0034889C2+0.0004314C3FPD_{\mathrm{NaCl}} = 0.581855\,C + 0.0034889\,C^2 + 0.0004314\,C^3

with:

C=100mNaClmwaterC = 100\frac{m_{\mathrm{NaCl}}}{m_{\mathrm{water}}}

Complete expression becomes:

FPDtotal=FPDsugars+FPDmilk salts+FPDNaClFPD_{\mathrm{total}} = FPD_{\mathrm{sugars}} + FPD_{\mathrm{milk\ salts}} + FPD_{\mathrm{NaCl}}

Separation is useful because milk salts and deliberately added sodium chloride need not be represented by same empirical term.

What initial FPD cannot answer

Initial freezing point tells us when ice can first appear. It does not determine how much water has frozen at a lower temperature. Once ice forms, remaining liquid water decreases and the serum becomes increasingly concentrated. The FPD calculation must then be applied against that changing liquid phase.

That turns the next calculation into an equilibrium problem: find the liquid-water mass for which serum FPD equals the magnitude of target temperature. Ice mass follows from difference between initial and remaining liquid water.

This chapter has established why that feedback exists. Next chapter compares two ways of quantifying it, defines each fraction denominator, and exposes numerical solution interactively.

Next: How much ice forms in ice cream?

References